The beautiful city of St. Pete Beach is located just south of Treasure Island, about a 15- minute drive to the ever evolving City of St. Petersburg. Year-round sunshine, white pristine beaches, and proximity to an art-conscious community, make it a popular tourist destination. Lately, life is so good on this barrier island community that tourists love it so much they decide to stay.
Not only is the selection of family style eateries getting better on the beaches, but upscale dining, often in a casual atmosphere, draws more tourists as well as locals to dine here
Castille, a lovely restaurant across from the Gulf, has gathered a loyal following. Not only is the Hotel Zamora (in which it is located), the newest hotel erected on St. Pete Beach in 20 years, but it is elegant and distinctively beautiful, including an incredibly picturesque 360 degree rooftop bar.
The 36-room Hotel Zamora was launched in 2014 with the talented Tim Dorsey as its chef, but recently they hired a new executive chef, Louis Scaramuzzi.
In a conversation after my first visit, Scaramuzzi told me he recently headed up the Baystar group made famous by seasoned owner Frank Chivas and the late Tom Pritchard, who together created several renowned restaurants on the beach and in Clearwater.
Scaramuzzi’s 25 years of culinary experience, including a strong influence by the much revered and legendary Auguste Escoffier, the father of traditional French cooking, sets the tone for dining at Castile.
According to Scaramuzzi, he is a protégé of the late Charlie Trotter, the Chicago “wonder” chef of international acclaim. Having been a fan of Trotter’s extraordinary creations and dined at his famous restaurant (and owning all of his five cookbooks), I immediately noticed a similarity to Trotter’s attention to detail.
Castille, since opening, made its mark on the first day by Chef Ted Dorsey who has since moved downtown to The Mill on Central Avenue.
The restaurant is named after an historical region in Spain and has already gathered a loyal following. And rightfully so.
To test out the new chef, I decided to invite several friends accustomed to fine dining to help me evaluate the menu. I discovered that though Executive Chef Louis Scaramuzzi is a diminutive guy, there is nothing small about the extraordinary flavor and presentation of his cuisine.
Castille is tastefully decorated and obviously influenced by the dazzling hills of Zamora, Spain, an area dedicated to the enjoyment of life and, of course, great cuisine.
Placemats are now used instead of the original white tablecloths but they blend well with the casually elegant decor. Lovely wood tables, both inside and out, blend well with the casual ambience.
Tapas-like appetizers are brilliantly executed, and I strongly suggest ordering several to share.
Lightly dusty calamari is served with a sour orange saffron aioli and is perfectly fried. A “flight” of ceviche is as fresh as it gets, with fresh with tuna and shrimp and a well marinated conch. The dish includes jicama (a crispy root veggie) yuca and plantain chips.
On our first visit, we requested the “tapas” first, but main courses came out before we are finished. Nonetheless, since we were almost finished with our appetizers (which we gobbled up) we accepted the main courses without mention of the early delivery.
A “house cured “pork belly dish is beautifully presented, Charlie Trotter style, and though many will find this too fatty a dish (I mean, what do you expect when your order pork belly?), I feel it is perfect with its mango chutney and lovely au jus.
On my first of two visits, rather than delivering main courses to those who order specific dishes, the waiter asks “who ordered what”? We each claim our order, but having been a waitress for a number of years I recognize the importance of serving the right dish to the customer, not a difficult task. At a casual restaurant one does not mind this kind of service, but at an upscale restaurant attention to detail is fundamental.
This did not happen on my subsequent visit. The service was adequate, though not outstanding. The waiter noticed my notebook, declaring that he knew I was reviewing the restaurant. I thought this was odd that he would admit such a finding. Most waiters would not let on such an observation, but this waiter seemed to glory in his find. So much for trying to dine anonymously.
Nonetheless, I love the new menu, my favorite being Duck Confit with a lovely white cassoulet. The waiter was not aware of the correct pronunciation, but it really didn’t matter since we understood the history of this amazing dish.
Seared colossal scallops are spanking fresh served over a lovely creamy risotto. Another winner is the Paella which one of my guests declared to have plenty of “seafood in every bite.” The finfish and shellfish are delish. Yet, I prefer this classic served in a sizzling paella pan and with rabbit, which is a necessary element I learned from the most famous paella maker in Spain who cooks in Valencia, Spain.
My guest Barbara, who has dined all over the world, is still raving about the pasta dish she enjoyed. Her next choice, she says, will be the house made Pappardelle with a Prosecco wine sauce and stuffed meatball.
On the second visit a combo flan dish with passion fruit, mango, and guava, is a hands-down winner. There is only one other offering, the chocolate dome that will be appearing on the menu, according to our waiter.
Dining alfresco, on the lovely outdoor patio overlooking the pool, is my preferred choice. Inside dining is loud. This may be appreciated by younger patrons, but the acoustics are too loud for me. I could barely hear my guests speak.
The consensus of all five of my guests is that they would certainly return. And, I too look forward to tasting even more innovative dishes by Chef Scaramuzzi., in particular, those of Spanish origin. He is quite a talent and much appreciated addition to the beach.
How fortunate we are to have such talent where once we had only the Maritana at the Don CeSar and Guy Harvey’s Rumfish.
Chef Scaramuzzi’s Mediterranean cuisine, along with a first-class wine list includes reasonably priced choices like the a smooth Rodney Strong Pinot Noir (Vintage 2013) for only $39.
Chef’ Scaramuzzi’s use of ingredients indigenous to Florida should continue the success that Chef Dorsey initiated at this splendid restaurant by the beach.
Castile, located in Hotel Zamora, 3701 Gulf Boulevard, St. Pete Beach
(855-926-6721 • www.thehotelzamora.com
Cuisine – Mediterranean
Accept most credit cards, reservations accepted, full bar, free valet parking for guests.
Joyce LaFray, one of Florida’s premier food experts, is an author of more than 15 books including Cuba Cocina, The Tantalizing Flavors of Cuba, Tropic Cooking: The Cuisine of Florida & the Caribbean and Key Lime Cooking. Joyce dines anonymously and pays for her meals)