On a daily basis we’re besieged with numerous recipes for the “best burger,” inundated with unique versions of Mac and cheese, and bombarded with the latest salad combinations. Most all of us are happy to accommodate, sampling one new guilty pleasure after another. But merely mention the idea of re-inventing, or adding anything new to an “authentic “ Cuban Sandwich and you’re in for a “biting” debate!
Not only is there disagreement about what ingredients an authentic Cuban Sandwich should contain, but an avid, “I’m mad as hell…” Cuban Sandwich fanatic will argue it’s origin, even which order the meats and cheese should be placed on the bread.
There are those who come to Cuban restaurants for many specialties, but most often for the ubiquitous Cuban Sandwich, which has a number of cousins, but always contains ham, roasted pork, cheese, and skinny pickles on Cuban bread, crusty yard-long loaves which are lighter and crispier than others. For breakfast the unique bread is toasted and dipped into espresso which has been lightened with milk.
I’ve done considerable research on this topic here in Tampa Bay, in Miami, even Cuba, and I’ve discovered that the Cuban Sandwich is a marvelous invention — but like most inventions there are variations. Tasting is believing and if you haven’t sampled a Cuban Sandwich, put it on your necessary list.
Like Mark Twain said “the secret of success (in life), is to eat what you like and let the food fight it out inside”.You may or may not agree with his assessment, but to a diehard Cuban aficionado there is little if any compromise on what a Cuban sandwich is and shall forever be.
Those adding tomato and lettuce are often called “fools” by these grass root activists. If sliced onion is added the sandwich is simply destroyed followed by an often piercing “Are you kidding me?”.
Most “authentic” sandwiches contain yellow mustard and/or mayo, which are generously slathered on the inside of both slices of bread. Some “experts” believe that only yellow mustard is permitted, while others claim the law to be strictly “only mayo.” A few say one should combine both the mayo and yellow mustard into a “special sauce.”
And the debate continues.
To make a truly “authentic” sandwich, special care must be taken to place the meats and cheese exactly in a special order, with cheese and/or salami ending up as the last ingredient on top. That way, when the sandwich is “pressed” those top ingredients are the first (and most important) to be melted.
Keynote is that the sandwich must be pressed. This is usually done with the use of a heavy metal press or plancha as it is called. If a press is not available the sandwich can be pressed with a warmed brick or heated in a frying pan and pressed with a weight.
Some foodies say the Cuban Sandwich craze began in small ma-pa cafes, where a sandwich was considered the entire meal. It has since been elevated in recent years in places like South Beach where trendy neighborhoods, rife with art deco elegance and designer chic made it a hip thing. And lastly, but never least, is the issue of the origin of the Cuban Sandwich.
A few will tell you it was invented in Cuba, as you might assume, but others swear it was Miami, and then there are the Tampanians who say there is no question but that it was invented in Tampa, Ybor City in particular. They will add that Genoa salami must be included as testament to their shared Ybor heritage with neighboring Italian immigrants. I’m not sure this debate will ever cease. In spite of the ongoing crisis, after you’ve sunk those pearly whites into that mighty monster of a sandwich and eaten every last crumb — should it really concern us that such a debate exists? In the final assessment you, the customer, are the judge. You loved that beauty and that’s all that mattered!
Joyce LaFray (Joyce LaFray reviews anonymously and pays for her own meals. For more about Cuban Cuisine check out Cuba Cocina: The Tantalizing Flavors of Cuba, Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow at harpercollins.com or amazon.com)
Some of Our Favorites!
I have listed some of my favorites, each of which has been thoroughly vetted. These eateries are listed in alphabetical order. All are t-shirt, flip-flop casual. (Most Cuban Sandwiches come in two sizes, a 6” or 12”)
Barracuda Deli Cafe, 6640 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach, Fl 33706 (727) 826-0998Made with real Cuban bread. The highlights are the yummy chunks of marinated pork, multiple layers of ham and salami, mayo and mustard added separately to each side a free serving of fresh slaw.
M & G Cuban Cafe, 4620 49th St. N., St. Petersburg, Fl 33709 (727) 744-1993Luscious layers of deli pork and ham with imported Italian and American ham, mustard and mayo and a double dose of dill pickles. The sandwich is perfectly pressed.
Perera Cuban Cafe, 5772 54th Ave., N., Kenneth City, Fl 33709 (727) 541-2037These folks dared to add tomatoes and shredded lettuce. But it still makes a great sandwich. Swiss cheese, deli-sliced pork and a good baked ham with yellow mustard.
Pipo’s Cuban Cafe, 9531 Bay Pines Blvd., St. Petersburg, Fl 33708 (727) 394-7476 – This chain has been around a long time, having opened their first restaurant in Tampa. They serve a very traditional sandwich with roasted ham, pork, cheese, pickles and yellow mustard.
Simply Delicious Country Deli, 2128 9th Ave. N., St. Petersburg, FL 33713 (727) 327-0296 – Owners Xiomara and Damien, mom and son from Brooklyn, make a very non-traditional sandwich. Their 12- inch “dinosaur” is one– and- a half pounds of ham and perfectly marinated pork, white American cheese, on homemade Italian bread with a mayo-garlic sauce, a family secret.
The Floridian, 230 107th Ave, Treasure Island, Fl 33706 (727) 367-6662 – Popular since 1982, this indoor-outdoor cafe by Val and Ted serves a traditional sandwich made with ham, spiced pork, Genoa salami, imported Swiss cheese and dill pickle. Slathered in mustard and mayo and served on fresh Cuban bread.
The Bodega, 1120 Central Ave., St. Petersburg FL (727) 623-0942 – On the main drag of downtown St. Pete, Bodega serves the traditional Cuban with roast pork and the other traditional meats including ham, pickles and mayo, no mustard.